A Blend of Adventure and Tranquillity
Zanzibar holds a special place in my heart, which is why it might come as no surprise that I chose the island as the main setting for my debut novel, The Anywhere Hotel. It truly is a jewel in the Indian Ocean that never fails to amaze with its blend of history, culture, and breathtaking natural beauty. Having visited this enchanting island several times, I’ve witnessed its evolution amid the growing wave of tourism. To truly embrace the essence of Zanzibar, you need to take it slow and dive deep into Stone Town’s soul, get lost wandering the bustling alleys, then seek out those serene, untouched beaches, away from the big resorts.
Zanzibar’s Soul is Stone Town
At leas to me… There’s something so magical about starting your day on a rooftop in Stone Town. As you sip on hot coffee and eat buttered toast and a bowl of fresh fruit, the sounds of the Muezzin’s call to prayer, the chattering of seagulls, and the scent of spices carried by the ocean breeze come together in a symphony that captures the essence of Zanzibar. I could do this all day, in fact I have in the past: Spending hours watching the hustle and bustle below until the sun becomes too hot and it was time to disappear into the cool of my room for a midday siesta, then explore the city in the afternoon…
Wandering through the winding alleys of Stone Town feels like peeling back layers of history with every step. The scent of spices wafts through the air, mingling with the ocean breeze, guiding you to hidden courtyards where the past seems to echo off the walls. Along these paths, stray cats lounge in patches of sunlight, and the vibrant doors of homes and shops burst with stories waiting to be told.
Zanzibar’s Stone Town is a Foodie’s Paradise
For foodies, Stone Town has a lot to offer. The best coffee can be found at Zanzibar Coffee House, a perfect pit stop before diving into the day’s adventures.
At dawn, head on over to Daranjani Bazaar near the ancient fort, and you’re drawn into the rhythm of daily life here. As you meander down the crowded pathways laced with potted palms, their skinny trunks decorated with fairy lights, self-proclaimed “master-chefs” will boost their goods from behind their mobile kitchens, their puffy hats gleaming white like gardenia blossoms under the kerosene lanterns. Singing “Hakuna Matata” (at times a little half-heartedly) to the delight of selfie-taking tourists, they vend boatloads of seafood from pasting tables wrapped in tin foil by the meter.
A lively chef named Alibaba might advertise a “small table but always fresh food,” well-stocked with Chapati-bread, corn on the cob, roasted sweet potatoes and cassava. Alibaba (most likely not his real name) then suggests you try a Zanzibar Pizza, which he prepares for you on a crepe maker, stuffing a piece of dough generously with onion, carrot, green pepper, tomato, cheese and mayonnaise. Cracking an egg on top of his creation, he flips it over after a few minutes, then hands you the delicious treat with a cheeky smile…
If you’re not full after that, by the time dinner rolls around, head on over to Emerson Spice (it’s a hotel, too!), where the vibe is pure adventure movie magic, straight out of Indiana Jones. By the way, another fantastic place to stay is Upendo House, where the food and atmosphere make every visit memorable… and did I mention the rooftop pool?
Stone Town, as described in The Anywhere Hotel:
Zanzibar’s Old Town was a cacophony of colours and sounds, a maze of alleys with crumbled walls, mouldering from centuries of monsoon rains. Ava had landed at the island’s tiny airport earlier that afternoon. Now she sat on her narrow balcony at the Kasa Bed and Breakfast, a charming guesthouse Mel had recommended next to the freight port. Her room boasted high ceilings, ornate wooden furniture, and a canopy bed with mosquito netting. The air conditioning unit rattled like a washing machine in spinning mode but provided a welcome respite from the stifling humidity.
As Ava watched the bustle below her feet, the muezzin’s call to prayer blared from an ancient speaker on a nearby rooftop. The air smelled of the ocean and jasmine, of tropical fruit and old frying fat. Power cables snaked in knotted bundles across an alley so narrow a car wouldn’t fit through yet teeming with activity: Street vendors touting their goods, kids chasing one another, motorcycles rattling past a pair of elderly gentlemen engaged in a game of Bao, sipping tea as they contemplated their next moves. The traditional Tanzanian board game was a local favourite, as Ava had learned from the receptionist earlier.
This place was everything she needed now – a bustling city where she could be just another stranger. So chaotic and vibrant and noisy, it drowned out any thoughts about her future as soon as they arose. She could have spent hours sitting here, observing life without being a part of it. Her peace, however, was disrupted when she spotted a figure lurking in the shadows – a Zanzibari woman who had fixed her gaze directly on her, sending an unsettling chill down her spine. Ava withdrew back into the room, feeling uneasy to have become the watched instead of the watcher.
Excerpt from “The Anywhere Hotel”
Beyond the Alleys: Zanzibar’s Pristine Beaches
Zanzibar’s coast is dotted with breathtaking beaches, so it’s tough to make a choice. I have liked Matemwe beach on the east coast, where I was lucky enough to spend a whole week, finishing a book project. I stayed at “Hodi Hodi”, which I can highly recommend. Hodi Hodi is located on a quiet section of Matemwe. With only three Swahili style beach houses on offer the property has a very relaxed, quiet and private feeling to it.
Matemwe Bandas Boutique Hotel is another gem on the same beach, offering tranquility, morning yoga on the beach, and stunning views of the turquoise waters. Whether you’re staying overnight or just there for a meal (walking down the beach from Hodi Hodi), the occasional live music can turn a simple evening into a magical experience.
By the way, it was here on this beach that I first had the idea to write a book about a magical beach house, which I was going to call “The Traveller’s House”, but it would be another three years until the idea took shape on another tropical beach, and your can read about that tale here…
Giving Back in Zanzibar:
A visit to Zanzibar can be enriched so much if you look for a way to engage on a deeper level with this incredible place. Whether it’s by participating in local community initiatives or supporting conservation efforts, your contributions help ensure that Zanzibar remains vibrant and beautiful for generations to come.
- Zanzibar Butterfly Centre: This is Africa’s largest butterfly exhibit, providing an eco-friendly tourist attraction that supports local conservation efforts.
- Zanzibar Outreach Program (ZOP): ZOP undertakes various community support initiatives, including health, education, and water projects. Volunteering or donating to ZOP allows you to contribute directly to improving the lives of Zanzibar’s residents through sustainable development.
- Seaweed Center, Paje: This social enterprise offers a unique insight into seaweed farming, a vital part of Zanzibar’s economy, and promotes sustainable practices. By visiting, you support the empowerment of local women seaweed farmers and contribute to the local economy.
- Jozani Forest Conservation Area: Home to the endangered Red Colobus Monkeys, Jozani Forest offers a chance to explore Zanzibar’s unique biodiversity. Your entrance fee and donations support the conservation of the forest and its inhabitants, as well as community projects in surrounding villages.
Every trip to Zanzibar is a journey that goes beyond the beautiful beaches and into the heart of its rich culture. To me, it’s the perfect place to slow down, explore and dream but to do so, I found, it’s best to slow down in Stone Town and then definitely stay at a small, intimate place by the beach.
Hi ♥️, I’m Gisele Stein, author of feel-good novels with a little magic and places like characters, which i craft from my cosy cabin on Wadandi Boodja in Western Australia. Have a look at my books here. I’m also podcasting as The Earthy Writer, to document my rewilding year: Every new moon, I set a new rewilding intention for the month, and every full moon I share my learnings with you…